Destination Guides

Luxury Honolulu: An Insider’s Guide

Hawaii’s capital is a melting pot of natural beauty, cosmopolitan vibes, and an enviably healthy lifestyle—no wonder it’s one of America’s happiest places

Wedged between rain-carved emerald mountains and the world’s most famous surf break, Honolulu is not your typical metropolis. Its natural beauty regularly upstages its skyline: panoramic sunsets and rainbows splash the high-rises with color, while the city’s official bird—the elegant white fairy tern, or manu-o-Kū—performs acrobatic maneuvers above. But it’s not all palm trees and paddleboards. Hawaii’s sun-kissed state capital has a sophisticated side, too. Hawaii expert Shannon Wianecki takes us on a tour of the city.

If a hike to the top of Diamond Head isn't your style, the shops of Honolulu's Luxury Row are not far away. Photograph and banner image: Getty Images
If a hike to the top of Diamond Head isn't your style, the shops of Honolulu's Luxury Row are not far away. Photograph and banner image: Getty Images

Steps away from the beach, Luxury Row woos the fashionable into sparkling boutiques. Chanel has its three-story flagship store here, alongside Miu Miu, Moncler, and Gucci. New hotels—The Modern, Surfjack, and The Laylow—inject the city’s euphoric mid-century history with fresh life.

Open to the breeze, The Laylow is a secluded retreat nestled above the buzz of Waikiki. Photograph: The Laylow, Autograph Collection
Open to the breeze, The Laylow is a secluded retreat nestled above the buzz of Waikiki. Photograph: The Laylow, Autograph Collection

Downtown, the Honolulu Museum of Art is small but mighty, featuring dynamic contemporary exhibits and films. Inside the Bishop Museum’s cavernous collection of Pacific art and artifacts, you can explore the ancient origins of these islands.

Boasting a laid-back vibe and exceptional hospitality, the Surfjack hotel collaborates with local artists to accent the rooms and common spaces. Photograph: Mariko Reed, courtesy Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club
Boasting a laid-back vibe and exceptional hospitality, the Surfjack hotel collaborates with local artists to accent the rooms and common spaces. Photograph: Mariko Reed, courtesy Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club

For an eclectic cultural immersion, head over to Chinatown. On the way, you’ll pass through the hip Kakaako neighborhood, with its eye-popping street murals. Browse the fish markets, lei shops, arty boutiques, and cafés. Stop into Madre Chocolate for a lesson in crafting gourmet chocolate. And come hungry: Chinatown offers superior dining.

Honolulu ranks among the healthiest cities in the USA for good reason: it’s easy to stay active in a town with perfect weather year-round

Senia on King Street serves inventive dishes that will linger long in your memory. Dusted in green kombu, the charred cabbage from chef Chris Kajioka looks a bit like Oscar the Grouch and tastes like heaven. Next door, The Pig & The Lady lures diners with fresh takes on Vietnamese staples.

Andrew Le, executive chef and owner of The Pig & The Lady, has turned his farmers’ market pop-up into a permanent restaurant in Honolulu’s Chinatown.
Andrew Le, executive chef and owner of The Pig & The Lady, has turned his farmers’ market pop-up into a permanent restaurant in Honolulu’s Chinatown.

“Honolulu continues to become more cosmopolitan,” says George Mavrothalassitis. The Marseille-born chef moved here some three decades ago, opening one of Honolulu’s most beloved fine-dining restaurants, Chef Mavro, in 1998. Mavro’s menu marries French techniques with local produce for marvelous results—such as the salt-crusted onaga (red snapper) and guava malasadas (Portuguese donuts). “I always cook from the market, and Honolulu offers such diverse and unique markets,” says Mavrothalassitis.

For a break from the sun and surf, become immersed in Hawaiian culture and history at the Bishop Museum.  Photograph: Shutterstock
For a break from the sun and surf, become immersed in Hawaiian culture and history at the Bishop Museum. Photograph: Shutterstock

Follow the chef’s example and visit the Kapiolani Community College Farmers’ Market early Saturday morning. It’s worth navigating the crowds for soursop and dragon-fruit juice, grilled abalone, fresh ginger ale, and fried green tomatoes.

Honolulu is a gateway to numerous Pacific destinations: reach any West Coast US city in under six hours

Honolulu ranks among the healthiest, happiest cities in the USA for good reason. It’s easy to stay active in a town with perfect, 85°F weather year-round. Catch wave after rolling wave at Waikīkī. Climb into an outrigger canoe and glide across the glassy sea. Or take a hike to the top of Diamond Head.

Surfing enthusiasts will be spoiled for choice throughout the Hawaiin islands, including on Oahu. Photograph: Getty Images
Surfing enthusiasts will be spoiled for choice throughout the Hawaiin islands, including on Oahu. Photograph: Getty Images

If you find yourself craving the cold, you can always hop on a 45-minute flight over to Hawaii Island, where Mauna Kea’s 13,796-foot summit regularly collects snow. While you’re there, gaze into Kīlauea’s fiery inferno, where Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes, is busy sculpting new landscape out of molten lava.

Currently active, Kīlauea has been designated a World Heritage Site since 1987. Photograph: Getty Images
Currently active, Kīlauea has been designated a World Heritage Site since 1987. Photograph: Getty Images

Honolulu is a gateway to numerous Pacific destinations: reach any West Coast US city in under six hours. Hong Kong is 14 hours away and London 18 hours—though after a couple of hours here, you might discover that you prefer to stay barefoot.