Destination Guides

Angra dos Reis: Brazil’s Unspoiled Island Paradise

Set away from the busy streets of Rio de Janeiro, and with its crystal-blue waters and idyllic islands, coastal getaway Angra dos Reis is Brazil’s secret treasure

With temperatures rarely dropping below 68°F (20°C), peaking at a glorious 88°F (31°C), and with low rainfall outside of March and April, it’s hardly surprising that the coastal area of Angra dos Reis is a paradise for lovers of the outdoors. Certainly, the region has many sites that pique touristic interest—such as churches and museums—but most people come here to be outside, and ideally next to water.

The area of Angra dos Reis is made up of settlements nestling into the lush natural landscape. Photograph and banner image: Getty Images.
The area of Angra dos Reis is made up of settlements nestling into the lush natural landscape. Photograph and banner image: Getty Images.
Small wonder too: with some 400 islands along the region’s Green Coast, some barely big enough for a palm tree, it can seem that most of it is comprised of resting points between stretches of crystal-blue water.

Only locally registered boats are permitted in the waters around Angra dos Reis, but there are plenty of companies chartering vessels to take visitors from island to island. Photograph: Alamy.
Only locally registered boats are permitted in the waters around Angra dos Reis, but there are plenty of companies chartering vessels to take visitors from island to island. Photograph: Alamy.
These are ideal for swimming and scuba diving—the waters in these parts have coral reefs, abundant marine life, and shipwrecks to explore, including that of the Brazilian ironclad battleship Aquidabã—and this despite Angra dos Reis being home to busy ports for the nation’s oil industry.  

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Elite island escape
On the islands, many of which are studded with clusters of mansions, you can join weekend adventurers following trails to hidden waterfalls and isolated beaches. And if you happen to be on the largest of the islands, Ilha Grande, you can visit the idyllic 30,000-acre state park with its restingas, heaths, and mangroves, which is popular with locals and travelers alike.

Ilha Grande is the largest of the islands, but it has the same sense of tranquility found throughout the region. Photograph: Getty Images.
Ilha Grande is the largest of the islands, but it has the same sense of tranquility found throughout the region. Photograph: Getty Images.

A stormy history
The backstory of the 315-square-mile region is a less positive one: it was once a staging post for slaves brought from Africa to work the coffee plantations on the mainland. This followed the archipelago’s discovery (by Portuguese settlers, at least) in 1502. Naval commander Gaspar de Lemos landed here on January 6, King’s Day, and so named it Angra dos Reis, loosely translated as “Anchorage of the Kings.”

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With no busy resorts to spoil the spectacular views, condos at the bay area have been sensitively designed to complement the landscape. Photograph: Shutterstock.
With no busy resorts to spoil the spectacular views, condos at the bay area have been sensitively designed to complement the landscape. Photograph: Shutterstock.

Unsurprisingly, many of the 16th-century sailors who landed here decided to stay. It has been under continual settlement ever since, yet the region’s population has never topped 200,000. Many residents work outdoors: agriculture, notably banana growing, is big business here. That means there is plenty of space per person, and a lot of it is protected, Angra dos Reis an important site for biological reserves and sustainable development. 

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With freshly caught seafood and refreshing cocktails on the menu, the waterfront is the perfect place to relax. Photograph: Getty Images.
With freshly caught seafood and refreshing cocktails on the menu, the waterfront is the perfect place to relax. Photograph: Getty Images.

Sunshine and cocktails
Tourism in the region is relatively under-developed—for the time being there are, thankfully, few busy resorts along the coastline; people generally don’t come here for the art galleries, theater life, or fine dining they can find in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, 248 and 93 miles away respectively. What people really come here for are the big skies, open waters, and caipirinhas at sundown.